In the third part of the Rituals column, which you can find on our Instagram, we talk to the founders of the first Czech niche perfume house, Pigmentarium .
The brand was founded in 2018 by Tomáš Ric together with perfumer Jakub Hiermann, who is behind all the house's fragrances. Five of them have been introduced so far. Ideologically, Pigmentarium follows a number of global brands, whose work becomes the opposite of the commercial production of fragrances that we have witnessed in the last two decades, and upholds the values of the traditional perfumery craft. Pigmentarium does not create fashionable fragrances that respond to market demand, but exclusively fragrances that are the perfumer's own creative statement.
The basis of inspiration is primarily the period of the first republic of the former Czechoslovakia and its significant artistic creation. These sources of inspiration then meet the world culture of today and very well define Pigmentarium as a global brand with a clear local handwriting that interprets classic themes in a modern way. Since its beginnings, the perfumery house has been communicating with a number of contemporary artists and referring to the classics. Everything is created on the basis of top quality craftsmanship and the best ingredients.
How do human olfactory senses work and how do you work with them through scent?
The human sense of smell is not among the most perfect (some creatures, unlike us, really literally "see with their noses"), but even so, a trained human nose can distinguish ten thousand scents. Unlike the other senses, it is precisely smells, or smells, if we will, that penetrate the brain without distortion. That is why they most strongly capture and preserve our memories. The sensitivity of smell varies from person to person and is generally more sensitive in women.
(4.) As we know, we perceive individual smells positively or negatively, but even if there are certain cultural differences, the evaluation of smells is similar for all people in the world. In this way, we know in advance how each scent is perceived and can work with this information in a targeted manner. Two moments are characteristic for the pigmentarium. The use of citrus that evokes a feeling of happiness and work with musk that is very sensual and attracts other people.
What does our own scent say about us?
Smell can say a lot about us without words, even more than clothes, hairstyle or makeup. By smell, you can estimate how brave or traditional a person is; how animalistic he is, how much he likes to play or stick to the ground. If he has wit and a sense of style, or lacks it. You can tell how important quality is to the wearer and determine how much money it cost based on the smell. But probably most of all, the smell underlines the emotion that people feel about us. With the help of smell, it is possible to partially influence people's perception of ourselves.
What scent should you choose to calm down or, conversely, to excite?
It can be different. Lavender or vanilla have a calming effect. Citrus scents are encouraging, but also mint and sandalwood or patchouli are stimulating.
What scents evoke the strongest emotions in you?
Most often, those associated with memories from childhood, or with the scent of a loved one. In a completely unpoetic way, it is also the smell of food.
Do you intentionally incorporate any fragrance ingredients into your perfumes? For what purpose?
As I actually mentioned in the first answer, it is certainly the musk that gives the perfume an erotic charge.
Does it make sense for an ordinary person to train their sense of smell?
I definitely think that by training the sense of smell, one can open one's horizons, better understand what is happening to us right now. It is possible to train a more sensitive nose, we will perceive smells more intensively and with them the world.
Is there anything interesting about scents in nature?
For example, civet itself smells strongly to a person. However, when used in the right amount in a perfume, for example with flowers, it can literally work wonders.
What role can scent play as part of any of our daily rituals?
The scent can raise our self-confidence, give us courage and energy, or, on the contrary, it can help us calm down and relax.